Archive for the ‘16000 Italy’ Category

03/22/2011 YO Cream Puffs

Tuesday, March 22nd, 2011

Ingredients: 14 mini pieces

(Choux Pastry)

  • 54.17 g water
  • 20.83 g milk (22.53 g this time)
  • 0.42 g salt
  • 0.83 g sugar
  • 16.67 g unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 25 g cake flour, should be sifted (easy to get lumps)
  • 33.33 g eggs or more (yolk 13.33 g, white 20 g: keep it separated, do not beat, room temperature so that butter would not harden due to cooling): (this time 45 g: yolk 17 g +white 28 g)

(Custard Cream)

  • 20 g sugar
  • 21.4 g egg yolk (this time 17.8 g yolk +3.6 g white)
  • ————————
  • 13.4 g cake flour, twice sifted
  • ——————————
  • 120 cc milk (this time 130 cc)
  • 14 cc heavy cream (to add flavor) (this time 1 TBS)
  • 20 g sugar ( to avoid burning milk)
  • pinch salt
  • ———————–
  • 5.4 g vanilla extract (about 1 tsp)
  • ——————
  • 100 g heavy cream
  • 12 g sugar

(Assembly)

  • powdered sugar

Procedures

(Choux Pastry)

  1. Grease the half sheet pan and wipe all the grease with paper towel as much as one can.  Prepare water sprayer.
  2. Heat water, milk, salt, sugar, butter in butter warmer, in medium heat, while stirring so that butter melts quickly.  (Milk and sugar is for adding flavor. Milk Fat supress the dough’s hardening and viscosity development. Butter should be melted before boiling point so that water would not evaporate too much; or formula loses the balance.) Let it boil vigorously (100C)->increase starch viscocity. 
  3. Turn off the heat.  Add flour, stir with a wooden spatula until powder is incorporated and the dough gets together.
  4. With Medium High Heat, in smearing parallel motion with a wooden spatula, quickly stir.  (80C)  At this stage, there is a thin membrane at the bottom of the pan, and you hear some sizziling sound.
  5. Transfer to anothe bowl.  Let it cool to 65C (to avoid egg coaggulation).  Add 75% of unbeaten eggs. (Unbeaten eggs: to separate licthin from egg white and let egg white work for the structure.) Stir with a wooden spatula. (Here, if one uses stand mixer, it needs to be in the low speed to avoid eggs to be aerated too much. )  Add the remaining gradually while checking the right hardness. The dough becomes glossy and drops from the saptula very slowly and triangle dough remains hung in spatula.  Or when you draw a line with an index finger (dipping up to the first knuckle level)  in about 4 cm deep dough, the line closes quickly following the finger.  (30C)  Preheat oven at 425F. (This time 400F)
  6.  Drop the dough on Silpat with an ice cream scooper.  Spray with water,  to make steam in the oven and help the dough expansion, use wet fork to score.
  7. Bake at 180 C (360F) for 30 min.  (lower than usual since this dough has milk and sugar that easily burn) Turn off the heat and cook 20 more minutes with residual heat. 

(Custard Cream)

  1. In a bowl, mix egg yolk and sugar, use hand mixer until pale. (すりまぜ)
  2. Add flour and mix with a whisk very slowly to minimize gluten developement. (すりまぜ)
  3. Boil milk, sugar, salt, cream in butter warmer, add 1/3 of it to the custard paste above. Mix.  Return it back to the original butter warmer and mix.  (If you mix milk and custard-flour at once, milk cools suddenly and delay the development of alpha-starch and develop gluten’s elasticity.)  Heat with highest heat, while stirring slowly in circular motion with a whisk. 
  4. The dough starts to get tough, stir slowly and patiently in scrubbling motion with a whisk.
  5. It gets glossy, easier to stir, and the bubbles get bigger then cook a little more.  Then turn off the heat. (In this stage the cream drops with thin stripes very swiftly. )
  6. Add vanilla and mix.   Tightly cover with plastic wrap, chill in an ice-water bath, transfer to the refrigerator.  (for at least 8 hours)

(Assembly)

  1. When cream is chiled and firmed, use a strainer to strain cream. (I skipped straining. )Whisk the custard until smooth.
  2. Whip heavy cream and sugar to 90% stiffness.  Fold two creams together.
  3. Poke the bottom of the Choux shell, pipe the cream into the shell.
  4. Top with powdered sugar throuth tea strainer if you want.

Comments:

Based on: シュークリーム、岡田吉之、Book 31, Bibliography

Choux Pastry: original/24

Comparison to Tsuji Choux: 11% less butter, 20% less eggs

Custard Cream’s formula was not given: I made it up myself.

岡田氏によると:

コシはださずにコクをだせ。(くりーむ)

低脂肪の生クリームをくわえてコクを強化。

強火でゆっくりかきまぜてたくー>薄力粉中のたんぱく質が水分に過度に反応し余計なグルテンをうむのをふせぐため。さらさらにしあげる。

シューは骨のあるシュー、ミルクを加え風味を強化。卵は解きほぐさずに加えるー>卵白中のたんぱく質を生地のコシにじかに結ぶつけたい。

I felt diplomat cream was too rich.

03/01/2011 Chicken Spaghetti

Tuesday, March 1st, 2011

Ingredients:

  • Chicken Breast, sliced thin
  • vegetable oil
  • salt
  • pepper
  • spaghetti, boiled in plenty of water, drained
  • Prego Spaghetti Sauce
  • spinach, MWP, cut
  • (optional) parmesan cheese, grated

Procedures;

  1. In a skillet, heat the oil, sautee chicken with high heat.  Pour enough water over the skillet, remove from the heat, pour through a strainer, wash the meat, wash the skillet, place the meat back to the skillet, heat the vegetable oil, sautee chicken until crisp.
  2. Season chicken with salt and pepper, slightly.
  3. Place spaghetti on the serving plate, top with chicken, spinach, and spaghetti sauce.  Serve with parmesan cheese.

02/07/2011 Ginger Mizuna Pasta

Monday, February 7th, 2011

Ingredients:

  • olive oil
  • Chicken Karaage, sliced thin
  • Crisp Bacon Bits, broken into bits with fingers
  • ginger powder
  • spaghetti, cooked in boiled water, drained
  • fresh Mizuna, cut into 4 – 5 cm lengths
  • salt
  • MSG (optional)

Procedures:

  1. Heat the olive oil in a skillet.  Add Chicken Karaage, bacon, and ginger powder and stir.
  2. Add spaghetti and Mizuna, and stir-fry.
  3. Season with salt, MSG, and ginger powder.

Comments:

Inspired by: しょうがパスタ、チェリーテラス、http://www.e-gohan.com/recipe/2054.html

I added leftover Karaage.

02/01/2011 Ricotta/Mascarpone Souffle Cheese Cake

Tuesday, February 1st, 2011

Ingredients: 6″ diameter, 2″ high cake ring

  • 42.2 g cake flour, sifted
  • 60.2 g sugar
  • dash salt
  • 120.5 g milk
  • ————————
  • 72.3 g egg white, place in 2 C MC
  • dash cream of tartar
  • ———————–
  • 48.2 g egg yolk   
  • 42.2 g milk
  • —————————————————
  • 26.61 g mascarpone 
  • 48.34 g ricotta, room temperature, whisk to be smooth
  • 3.35 g yogurt
  • 3 g rum
  • ———————–
  • 2 tsp apricot jam (for glaze)
  • 6 g rum
  • ———————
  • Pam ( greasing the cake ring)

Procedures:

  1. Make alumininum foil bottom for the cake ring.  Place it on Silpat lined half sheet pan.   Spray ‘Pam for baking’ to the inner surface of the cake ring and bottom. 
  2. Make about 7 cm width 50 cm tri-folded aluminum foil belt: you may use scotch tape to connect two belts to have enough length. Set aside.
  3. In a small container mix egg yolk and 42.2 g milk.  Set aside.
  4. In another small container, mix mascarpone, ricotta, and yogurt until smooth. Set aside.
  5. In a small pan, mix cake flour, salt  and sugar, add milk gradually and mix. (If lump forms, use a strainer to remove it.)
  6. Heat the mixutre in medium heat, whlle stirring with wooden spautula.  When the dough starts to get transparent, remove from heat. (At this stage, the dough is partially cooked and very viscous.)  Add cheese mixture, stir with a spatula to be smooth.
  7. Add egg yolk/milk mixture gradually and stir till incorporated.  Add rum and mix.
  8. Preheat oven at 350F (180C).
  9. Whip egg white, and add cream of tartar when 70% whipping was done.  Whip until stiff peark forms. (Here, I overwhipped the egg whites, causing shrinkage and corruption.) 
  10. Add part of Meringue to the starchy custard cream above and fold with a spatula.
  11. Return it to the Meringue graudally, and fold until incorporated.  (Instead, I kept adding meringue to the dough to fold in the pan.)
  12. Pour it to the cake ring and use a bamboo stick in swirling motion to kill the large unstable bubbles.
  13. Bake at 160C for 42 min. (Next time bake longer to have darker color on the surface.)
  14. Remove from the cake ring, wrap tightly with 3 folded aluminum foil strip around the side (and use a scotch tape to close the belt)  to keep the shape, replace the cake ring outside of the foil belt.  Cover with inverted large Pyrex bowl to avoid the drying out and sudden temperature drop ( to prevent cracks and corrups of the cake) and cool at room temprature.
  15. MW apricot jam to soften, add 6 g rum and mix.  Brush it on the cake.
  16. Refrigerate several hours.

Comments:

Inspired by: ふんわリッチな チーズケーキ、まつぼっくり、http://www.kyounoryouri.jp/

I changed 60.2 g cream cheese and 18.1 g sour cream to mascarpone+ricotta+yogurt,  changed 42.2 g heavy cream to milk, changed the procedures that fit my efficiency.

The heating and stirring the flour mixture for full development of alpha starch is as important as in Choux Pastry Making.

The original was for 21 cm dia cake pan, I divided the formula by 1.66 to make the total calories about 1000 kcal, and used 6″ diameter cake ring.

I overwhipped egg whites, causing structure corruption a little bit.  It is better to add part of sugar/salt to egg whites before whipping to stabilize the meringue, next time.

01/31/2011 KK Cream Puffs

Monday, January 31st, 2011

Ingredients: 7 pieces (bottom dia 4.5 cm, middle dia 5 cm, hight 3.7 – 4.1 cm)

(Choux Pastry)

  • 50 g water  (plus additional 22.5 cc warm milk after adding all eggs)
  • 0.83 g salt
  • 0.83 g sugar
  • 18.75 g unsalted butter
  • 25 g cake flour
  • 37.5 g egg

(Custard Cream)

  • 200 cc  milk
  • 4 g vanilla extract
  • 40 g egg yolk ( or 2 egg yolk)
  • pinch salt
  • 50 g sugar
  • 20 g cake flour
  • 20 g unsalted butter, sliced

 Procedures:

(Choux Pastry)

  1. Prepare Silpat in the half sheet pan.  Place a 1 TBS cookie scoop aside. Prepare water sprayer.
  2. Heat water, salt, sugar, butter in butter warmer.  Let it boil vigorously (100C)->increase starch viscocity.  Butter should be completely melted.
  3. Turn off the heat.  Add flour, stir with a wooden spatula until powder is incorporated.
  4. With Medium Heat on, in smearing parallel motion with a wooden spatula, quickly stir. It will lose the shines, but gradually get smooth and together. (80C)  At this stage, it is better not to have too much gloss: gloss means too much water loss and butter is separated and coming to surface, which disturbs egg to be absorbed in the next step.
  5. Transfer to anothe bowl.  Let it cool to 65C (to avoid egg coaggulation).  Add 75% of eggs. Stir with a wooden spatula.  Add the remaining gradually while checking the right hardness. The dough becomes glossy and drops from the saptula very slowly and triangle dough remains hung in spatula.  (30C)  Preheat oven at 425F.
  6.  Drop the dough on Silpat with a cookie scooper.  Spray with water, use wet fork or spoon to score, to smooth the surface area to make the escape of the steam easier and dry faster, resulting in crispiness.
  7. Bake at 200 C (395F) for 30 min.  Turn off the heat and cook 15 more minutes with residual heat. ( Pizza Stone Underneath to keep the temperature.)

(Custard Cream)

  1. In a bowl, mix egg yolk and sugar, use hand mixer until pale. (すりまぜ)
  2. Add flour and mix with a whisk or a hand mixer low speed. (すりまぜ)
  3. Boil milk in butter warmer, add 1/3 of it to the custard paste above. Mix.  Return it back to the original butter warmer and mix.   Heat with highest heat, while stirring vigorously with a whisk. 
  4. The first 1 – 2 min is easy to burn.  It starts to boil over.
  5. The dough starts to get tough, stir vigorously with a whisk.
  6. It gets glossy (since the sugar, that has low specific gravity, comes to the surface and make a membrane) and the bubbles up, then stop.  Turn off the heat. (In this stage the cream drops with thin stripes very swiftly. Gluten’s structure is broken and all ingredients are well-cooked in this stage.  If not, you tastes raw flour in the cream.)
  7. Add butter and mix to add flavor and gloss.  Add vanilla and mix.   Tightly cover with plastic wrap, chill in an ice-water bath, transfer to the refrigerator.  Fresh Custard Cream does not have profound flavor.  It is better to chill enough to intensify the falvour.

(Assembly)

  1. When cream is chiled and firmed, transfer it to a bowl, stir with plastic spatula (Shamoji) until smooth and glossy.
  2. Poke the bottom of the Choux shell, pipe the cream into the shell.

Comments:

Adapted from: シュー・パリゴー、河田勝彦、Book31,Bibliography

ORIGINAL/4.8 (for Choux Pastry),   Same as original for Custard Cream.

To compare with Tsuji Basic Choux Pastry, 2 times as much salt, 33% less eggs, addition of sugar.

To compare with Tsuji Basic Custard Cream, 5/6 of egg yolk, less sugar, addition of butter.

Custard Cream perhaps does not need butter at all.  Egg yolk can be even less than this.

The Choux shell was dry, tough, crisp: I don’t know if I like this very much.  Similar taste and texture to Tsuji Basic Choux Shell.  I forgot to sprinkle diced almonds; so Choux Parigot became plain Cream Puffs.

The initial water can be 3 times as much as the weight of flour when using oventop/butter warmer with this quanitiy.

河田勝彦氏によると:

  • 「フランス菓子は乾かすようにやくのが一番大事」
  • シューは気合、一気にねる。
  • 絞ったあとフォークでおさえつけるわけー>シュークリームがあまりでこぼこしない。(ごつごつすると、水分が抜けにくい。ー>湿気る、且つ、フォンダンをかけるとき、でこぼこしてたらやりにくい。)
  • 200Cで45-50分やいたら、通常底が むれるので網にうつすが、天板のまま粗熱をとる。しっかりやけてるのでだいじょうぶ。湿気にくい、生地がかわいてるので、アーモンドに生地の水分が移りにくいので香ばしい。
  • カスタードクリームは、菓子屋の基本。火にかけたまま練り、途中で手がおもくなってくるが、そこをとおりこしてすべてに火がとおるまで一気に気合をいれてねる。 
  • 生クリームをクリームにくわえないのは、ストレートでいきたいから。余分な水分をくわえず、あくまで乾いたシンプルなおいしさをもとめるため。

01/28/2011 Disaster Cream Puffs (total failure)

Friday, January 28th, 2011

Ingredients: 9 pieces (4.5 cm bottom dia, 5 cm middle dia, 2 – 2.7 cm height)

(Choux Pastry)

  • 12.5 g all purpose flour
  • 12.5 g cake flour
  • 0.91 g double acting baking powder
  • 0.81 g salt
  • 0.06 g baking soda
  • ———————
  • 22.7 g unsalted butter
  • 47.4  g hot water (Plan B: I made it 2.5 times as much, 118.5 g and cold water)
  • ———————–
  • 40 g egg, beaten, room temperature  (Plan B: Only 26.61 g was used, since I added too much water to start with and the dough became very soft not being able to add any more eggs..)

(Starch Cream: next time make twice as much)

  • 8.2 g corn starch
  • 19 g sugar
  • 160 cc milk
  • —————
  • 3.4 g unsalted butter
  • 1/4 tsp vanilla extract
  • 1/4 tsp almond extract
  • 1/8 tsp salt

(Topping)

  • powdered sugar

Procedures A: (This was the plan A: at step 3, the MW oven exploded [SUPERHEATING, BOILING DELAY, BOILING RETARDATION], abandoned the plan -> went to Plan B)

  1. Prepare Silpat in a half-sheet pan, and set 1 TBSP cookie scooper aside.
  2. Mix first  5 ingredeints with a whisk and sift.
  3. Mix hot water and butter, MW (covered with plastic wrap) until boiling point. (100C)

—————————————————————————————

Procedures B: (This is plan B, but adding too much water initially screwed up.  But interesting discovery => a lot of water and less egg -> very thin and very crisp skin.)

  1. Prepare Silpat in a half-sheet pan, and set 1 TBSP cookie scooper aside.
  2. Mix first  5 ingredeints with a whisk and sift.
  3. Heat  water and butter in butter warmer over oventop until boiling point. (100C)
  4. Drop the flour mixture into boiling liquid at once.  Remove from the heat.  Stir vigorously with hand mixer until incorporated. (Too much water prevented it from coming together.) (At this point dough temp = 65C, too low, ideally 77C.)
  5. Heat it again  until dough temperature reaches 80C.  Stir vigorously with a spatula (not a hand mixer). (At this stage the dough contains too much water and loose.)
  6. Preheat the oven at 425 F.
  7. Transfer to another bowl wait until the dough cools to 65C.  Add 50% of eggs, stir with a spatula, then gradually add the eggs until the right hardness is attained. (Too soft to add all eggs.)
  8. Drop a dough with a cookie scooper. Spray water, correct the shape with back of the wet fork.
  9. Bake at 425F for 13 min, reduce to 375F for 17 min.  Turn off the heat, place a wooden spatula between the door and oven and let the puffs dry out for 45 min in the oven with residual heat.
  10. Cool at room temperature.

(Starch Cream)

  1. Whisk starch, sugar in a bowl, add milk gradually and whisk.
  2. MW about 3 min 30 sec, while stopping and whisking very often.
  3. Add butter, salt, vanilla, almond extract,  in this order, whisking after each addition.
  4. Transfer to a wet metal shallow plate, tightly cover with plastic wrap, place in an ice-water bath, refrigerate until firm.
  5. Transfer to a bowl, whisk until smooth.

(Assembly)

  1. Cut the slit in each shell, spoon cream, and close.
  2. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, through a tea strainer.

———————————————————————————————-

Comments:

Originally, I was heating hot water and butter (after melting butter in hot water completely) with MW oven, covered with Plastic wrap.  After 38 sec, it suddenly boiled over.  Then I stirred and returned to the MW oven.  Shortly after that, the whole liquid in Pyrex MC exploded.  It seems that the butter that made the top layer was preventing from the bottom half of water to boil, and when the water reached the boiling point, somehow, it suddenly exploded. [SUPERHEATING, BOILING DELAY, BOILING RETARDATION]

I have never had this experience, the difference was that I used hot water and already melted butter in stead of cold water from faucet and room temperature butter as usual.  I believe that when using MW oven, butter must be cold to start with for MW use, since by the time water hit boiling point butter is dangerously hot.  Also oil layer somehow gives water layer in vacuumed condition,  that contributes to superheating.

Covering with plastic wrap, even with vent and loosely covering, is still worsen superheating.  Not adding salt to water before heating also worsen the problem.

So I changed the plan and started over with  oven top and butter warmer.  I increased water to 2.5 times as much as original formula, that was a simple error.  I should have multiplied the weight of the flour by 2.5 instead of weight of original water formula.  The correct initial water amount should have been 62.5 g instead of 118.5 g, which is 4.74 times as much as the weight of flour.  Since there are too much water left, I could not add all eggs, only 106% of flour, where Tsuji Basic Formula uses eggs that are 167% of flour.  Too much water and lack of eggs caused low rise and extraordinarily thin skin of the shell.  There were not a lot of splits, although it actually rose quite well initially, but it stopped rising after 9 min of baking.

Addition of baking powder and baking soda did not help since baking powder probably lost the effectiveness when water is added and cooked quite a long time.  The amount of bakng soda was quite trivial.  Both leavenings added slightly bitter after-taste. 

The skin was very thin, soft and crisp.  It was not very bad, actually.  But the volume was so small and looked bad.  The temperature was mostly right on spot, so alpha starch was developed enough.  Gluten was not developed very well, since most stirring was made when temperature was high.  That resulted in better taste, actually.  Shortage of egg also contributed not enough structure.

Tsuji Formula: water 41.67, butter 18.75, salt 0.417, flour 25, egg 41.67

This Formula: water 118.5, butter 22.7, salt 0.81, flour 25, egg 26.61

01/26/2011 Urawaza Cream Puffs

Wednesday, January 26th, 2011

Ingredients: 8 pieces (5-6 cm bottom dia, 5.5-6 cm middle dia, 3-4 cm height) 

(Choux Pastry)

  • 40 cc water
  • pinch salt
  • 25 g unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 25 g cake flour, sifted, transfer to a small container to make it easy to dropped in the boiling water
  • 50 g egg, room temperature (This time, 1 egg, 55.12 g: it was too much)

(Custard Cream: next time make twice as much)

  • 20 g egg yolk (1 egg yolk)
  • 1.5 TBSP sugar
  • pinch salt
  • 1/2 TBSP cake flour
  • 75 cc milk
  • a little vanilla extract

(Final Assembly)

  • some heavy cream
  • some sugar
  • some powdered sugar

Procedures:

(Choux Pastry)

  1. Prepare Silpat lined in a half sheet pan.  Set the rack at the lowest level in the oven. 
  2. In a 1 C Pyrex MC (at least 8 cm tall), mix salt and water, drop butter.  MW(1.6 kw), covered with plastic wrap, and let it boil. (Total 1 min 30 sec: every time it starts to boil up, measure the temperature of the bottom water.  It must be boild until the water temp becomes about 100C. I measured every 30 sec.)
  3. Add flour immediately, at once. (It will splash: be careful so that you don’t burn yourself.)
  4. Mix vigorously with a spatula until it gets together. (I used a hand mixer.)
  5. Preheat the oven at 200C (400F).
  6. Add 1/2 of egg and mix well,  add remaining of egg gradually, watching the texture, and mix well.  Confirm that the dough is in right textures with triangle remaining when dropped from spatula. (I added the last half of the egg at once, and made it slightly too soft.  My mistake.)
  7. Transfer to the decoration bag, tube in swiring motion, such as in soft served cream is served. (about 3 – 3.5 cm diameter at the bottom)  (But I used a 1 TBSP cookie scooper, causing the resulting shell lower than the original.)
  8. Spray with water.
  9. Bake at 400F(200C) for 15 min, 375F for 6 min, 350F for 7 min,  turn off the heat.  Open the door and place a wooden spatula between the oven and door to keep slight gap for the steam and heat to escape gradually (at least 45 min).
  10. Cool at room temperature.

(Custard Cream)

  1. Whisk all ingredients for the cream in a Pyrex small bowl.
  2. MW, covered with plastic wrap, 30 sec, stop and whisk.  Repeat MW and whisking two more times.
  3. Add vanilla and whisk.
  4. Transfer it in a wet shallow metal pan, wrap tightly with plastic wrap, chill in an ice water bath, transfer to the refrigerator, until set firmly.
  5. Transfer to a bowl and whisk until smooth.

(Assembly)

  1. Cut 1/3 top of the Choux shell, spoon the custard cream at the bottom.
  2. Mix heavy cream and sugar, whip until stiff with a hand mixer.
  3. Spoon the whipped cream over the custard cream layer in the shell.
  4. Close the lid of Choux shell.
  5. Sprinkle the powdered sugar through a tea strainer.

Comments:

Adapted from: 裏わざシュークリーム、http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bS9InBHzzkQ&NR=1

This technique was shown in YouTube, recorded TV program aired in Japan (日本テレビ、伊藤家の食卓 裏技れしぴ)。

The original/2.

I added salt for both Choux and custard cream.  I also replaced ready made pancake mix with simple cake flour and vanilla extract.

The splits are ugly and few, and there are some holes, implying that the alpha starch was not developed enough due to lack of 2nd heating after adding the flour.  Use of handmixer made gluten developed, it tastes like wheat gluten, lacks of shininess, slightly harder texture, perhaps thicker walls.  It did not rise well as expected; but the original procedures tubed the dough in spiral up soft-served ice cream shape, and that I guess my use of a cookie scoop had the disadvantage of shorter height before baking. 

I added too much eggs and the dough was slightly soft.  And I did not care to correct the shape when I added the last dough on tope of each shell.  Thus the resulting shell has a little bit of hat on top of each shell.  8 shells were made although the original was for 4.5 pieces for this amount.  So it proves that the dough was piped 2 times as high to start with.  This is a trick.

The Choux formula has 33% more butter, 20% more eggs than the Tsuji Basic formula.

The original Choux formula instructed baking at 190C for 30 min.  I changed the temperature to fit my needs.

For the initial boiling of water/butter mixture, butter goes up and water sinks.  So when taking temperature, one should put the probe down to the bottom layer to check the water temperature since butter temperature is above 100F and water temperature could be 70F.  For that reason, perhaps it is not necessary to make the butrer warmed to the room temperature intially.

Skipping the 2nd heating (after adding flour)required less water.  I used to start with extra water; but as long as I make the heating time short, there is no necessity to start with extra water?

The formula given for Custard Cream was for 4.5 pieces of the tall cream puff.  Since I ended up with 8 shorter pieces, I needed more Custard Cream than this.  Next time, it is better to make twice as much.  I made up with more whipped cream to fill the gap.

The Procedures for Custard Cream is very poor.  This produces unsmooth cream since flour tend to make lumps being mixed like this.  Even the original demonstration showed terrible lumps in the cream.  I never follow this recipe again.  The original used Pan-Cake-Mix probably since it is made to easily dissolve in liquid without causing too much lumps.

My possible mistakes and the faluts of the procedures:

  • Heating after adding the flour is necessary. Temperature was 59.20 after adding and mixing the flour, from this time on, there is no alpha starch could be developed.
  • Use of hand mixer immediately after adding flour is OK, since it helps alpha starch development as long as the temperature is above 78C.   But the use of hand mixer when eggs are added was not a good idea since it over-develop the gluten.
  • Adding too much eggs:  it was slightly softer than robust, dropping in thin string, making thinner and smaller triangle remaining. 

01/25/2011 BI Cream Puffs

Tuesday, January 25th, 2011

Ingredients: 7  pieces, (bottom dia 4.4 cm, middle dia 6.3 cm, height 3.7 cm)

(Cream Puff Pastry)

  • 35.3 g egg, room temp.
  • 10.6 g egg white, room temp.
  • 25.1 g unsalted butter, sliced, room temp.
  • 10.8 g milk
  • 39.2 g water
  • 2.22 g sugar
  • 0.53 g salt
  • 25 g all purpose flour, sifted

(Custard Cream:next time, make 1.5 times as much)

  • 35.3 g egg yolk (about 2 egg yolks)
  • 8.75 g sugar
  • ——————-
  • 21.2 g heavy cream
  • 129.2 g milk
  • 26.25 g sugar
  • 0.14 g salt
  • ——————
  • 10.6 g corn starch
  • 20.1 g unsalted butter
  • 2.22 g vanilla extract

(Topping)

  • some powder sugar

Procedures:

(Choux Pastry)

  1. Prepare Silpat lined in a half sheet pan.  Place 1 TBSP cookie scooper aside.
  2. Beat egg and egg white in a small container.
  3. In 1 C Pyrex MC, mix milk, water, sugar, salt, drop butter in, and MW (1.6 kw, covered with plastic wrap) for 30 sec and whisk, 23 sec, check the temperature (this time 99.6 C), until it reaches boiling point. (At full boil, butter should be fully melted.)
  4. Turn off the heat, drop the flour at once, stir with a spatula, until the dough clears the sides of the container. (Actual dough temp. was 67.4 C after this step.)
  5. MW total 39 sec, while stopping and stirring 2-3 times.  Stir with a smearing motion (すりまぜ)until slightly shiny, looking like wet sand, with tiny beads of fat at the bottom of the container.  (The ideal dough temperature: 175 – 180 F, 79.4-82.2C)( I probably overheated and the butter started to sizzle.)
  6. Preheat the oven at 425F.
  7. Transfer to FP, run the machine with feed tube open for 10 sec to cool slightly.  With the machine running, gradually add eggs in a steady stream.  After all eggs are added, scrape down the sides of the container, process for 30 sec until smooth. ( I did not use FP, instead I used only spatula and manually mixed.  At this stage, actual dough temp. was 43.7C.)
  8. (If you cannot use it immediately, transfer to the bowl, spray plastic wrap with cooking oil and press it directly to the dough surface, store at room temperature for up to 2 hours.)
  9. Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven at 425F.
  10. Scoop the dough with 1 TBSP cookie scooper and drop on Silpat, with at least 1 – 1.25″ (2.5 -3.2 cm) apart from each other.
  11. Spray with water and use a wet fork  or back of spoon to correct the shape.
  12. Bake 15 min at 425F, then reduce to 375F for 8 min.
  13. With a knife, cut a 3/4 inch slit into the side of each puff to release steam. (Cutting the slit was completely unnecessary.  This did not make any differeneces.) Return the puffs to the oven, turn off the oven, place a handle of wooden spoon between the oven and oven door to keep the door slightlyopen.  Keep it for 45 min to dry the puffs.
  14. Transfer to a wire rack to cool at room temperature.
  15. (It can be stored at room temperature for 24 hours, crisp at 300F for 5-8 min.  It can be  frozen in a zip-lock bag for up to 1 month and crisp at 300F for 8-10 min)

(Custard Cream)

  1. Whip egg yolk and sugar with hand mixer until pale.
  2. Add starch and whip more.
  3. MW(1.6 kw) cream, milk, sugar, and salt for 1 min, until just before boiling point.
  4. Add hot milk mixture into egg mixture gradually while whisking.
  5. MW 30 sec, whisk, 20 sec, whisk, 10 sec, whisk, until the right thickness is attained.
  6. Add butter and whisk.
  7. Add vinalla and whisk.
  8. Pour it over the wet shallow metal pan, cover tight with plastic wrap, place in the ice-water bath, refrigerate until firm.
  9. Transfer it to a bowl, whisk until smooth.

(Assembly)

  1. Cut 1/3 top of the Choux.  Use a spoon to fill the Choux with custard cream.
  2. Sprinkle with powder sugar through a tea strainer.

Comments:

Adapted from: Cream Puffs and Pastry Cream, Book 30, Bibliography

original x 0.353

Total 912.5 kcal:  Choux Pastry 340.29 kcal + Pastry Cream 572.21 kcal  Much heavier than Japanese recipes.

Slightly red tint implies that butter was overcooked and slightly separated when the dough was cooked after adding the powder.

The symptom of this low rise resembles the case in which the dough needed more liquid in the final stage.  I should have added more liquid/egg to this recipe. Error in determining when to stop egg mixture in the end.  And overcooking in the first and second stages and losing too much water.

Also, is it possible that 425 F was too high a temperature?  Did the surface dry too quickly before rising?  Should I have sprayed water more?  This resembles the result attained when water spraying or egg wash applying was skipped.  Although the baking illustrated editor claims spraying water is a bogus, it is their shortsitedness to reach such an egghead smart ass conclusion.  Their commercial size high tech expensive ovens are not owned by any ordinary housewives unless we were billionaires.  One who owns smaller simpler oven, without steaming function, spraying water or applying egg wash to prevent premature dryness could be essential.  Japanese Tsuji Culinary School’s baking science book actually shows the picture comparisons of the results with and without spraying water.  And Baking Illustrated’s claim has been disproved.  I sprayed water; but since Baking Illustrated unsignifed the water spraying was a myth, I did not sprayed lighter than usual.  I might have contributed to my imperfect result.

While mixing the flour, since there are too much butter, I did not see any viscosity developing no matter how hard I mix with spatula.  I used spatula only (not hand mixer, nor FP) since I wanted to avoid gluten over development since this used all purpose flour, harder flour than cake flour.)  But since there are too much butter, use of FP in moderation might have balanced lack of viscosity/structure in the dough and improved the result.  But I am not sure if the taste might suffer a little due to gluten development more or less.

More egg white and less egg yolk in the dough lightened up and crisped the shell; but it might be the reason that excess butter was not distributed enough due to shortage of egg yolk, which might have resulted in the low rise.

The taste is perhaps one of the best.  It is rich, crisp, and different from the Japanese recipes that use cake flour instead of all purpose flour.  This includes more butter and sugar, so it tastes rich.

Usually baking 6 – 7 min starts rising, 9 min starts splitting, 13 – 15 min stop rising,  for 25 g flour formula for the Choux Pastry, from my experience.

01/24/2011 Tiramisu Italian Home Style (Poorley Written Recipe)

Monday, January 24th, 2011

Ingredients: 2 servings (2 Cups, 1 CUP = 240 cc)

  • (Biscuit: yields 100 g, 9 round ones, next time make 2/3 of this amount)
    • 14.4 g egg yolk
    • 13.6 g sugar
    • ———
    • 31.1 g egg white
    • 13.6 g sugar
    • ——-
    • 27.3 g cake flour, sifted
    • some powdered sugar
  • (Coffee Syrup: yileds about 150 g: next time 1/2 of this amount is enough)
    • 9.1 g instant coffee
    • 90.7 g hot water, use MW
    • 31.7 g sugar
    • 18.1 g Marsala Wine
  • (Cheese Cream: next time make 1.5 times as much)
    • 3/4 TBSP (9.5 g) sugar
    • 20 g egg yolk (disinfected by heat processing, pasteurized)
    • 6.7 g Marsala
    • 6.7 g Rum
    • 100 g mascarpone, room temperature (it might have to be warmed to be soft and smooth)
    • 30 g egg white (disinfected by heat processing, pasteurized)
  • (Topping)
    • some cocoa powder

Procedures:

(To make Biscuit)

  1. Whip egg yolk and sugar in 1 C Pyrex MC with a hand mixer (only 1 whisk attachment) until pale and fluffy.  Transfer it to a small bowl.
  2. In another tall glass with a handmixer (only 1 whisk attachment), whip egg white and sugar until the peak forms.  (Add sugar gradually.)
  3. Fold Meringue into the egg yolk cream with a spatula until 80% mixed (marble status.)  (Add 1/3 of meringue at a time, and repeat twice more.)
  4. Add flour and fold with a spatula.
  5. Preheat the oven to 400F(200C)
  6. Use a spoon to drop the dough in circles (measure your serving cup to determine the approximate size of the circles: you may need smaller ones, middle sizes, and large sizes depending on the shape of the cup.) onto a Silpat lined half-sheet pan.  Use the back of wet spoon to correct the shape.
  7. (Optional Step: for this recipe you don’t necessarily need powdered sugar coating) Sprinkle powdered sugar through a tea strainer to cover the top of each biscuit until no dough surface is visible.  Tilt the pan to remove the powdered sheet ( and transfer leftover sugar to another container for different recipes.)  (But tilting does not move the powder sugar, so I kept the sugar on the Silpat and it was OK.)
  8. Bake at 190C (375F) for 12 min, turn off the heat, leave 2 min to cook with residual heat.
  9. Cool at room temperature.

(To make Coffee Syrup)

  1. Add instant coffee to hot water and let coffee dissolve.
  2. Add sugar and mix.
  3. Add Marsala and mix.

(To make Cheese Cream: very retarded method, see Comments)

  1. Mix sugar and egg, whip with a hand mixer untile pale.  Add Mascarpone Cheese and mix.  Add Marsala and Rum and mix. (When I added Mascarpone, it did not incoorporate with eggs and made ugly lumps.  I used Vitamix to fix this problem, but there was a limit.)
  2. Whip egg white in another container until still peak forms.
  3. Fold Meringue into the Cheese Cream. (The lump problem became worse.)

(Assembly)

  1. Dip each biscuit in the coffee syrup and let it absorb the syrup.  Then place it at the bottom of the serving cup to cover the bottom of the cup.
  2. Make alternate layers of cream ->biscuit, twice
  3. Pour the remaining Cheese Cream and flatten with a spoon.  (You may use spatula or knife to make the top surface flat.)

(Topping)

  1. Sprinkle cocoa powder through a tea strainer to cover the top.

(Final)

Keep it refrigerated for over 8 hours before serving.

Comments:

Adapted from: ティラミス イタリアの家庭でつくるとき、mayumiyama, http://oshiete.goo.ne.jp/qa/1914527.html

Referred to: ティラミス、Book5 in Bibliography.

This recipe was adapted from a Japanese lady who lived in Italy for a long time and learned how Italians make Tiramisu at their homes.  According to her, Italians may not use heavy cream since it gets too heavy (high calories), instead use egg whites.  The original recipe used Espresso instead of coffey syrup to soak the biscuits.  I added Marsala to the original recipe.

(Disinfection of eggs: for Cream: buy already pasteurized eggs if you cannot do this.)

Egg yolk: 61 C,   Egg white 65C  at least 3.5 min.

Taste is quite good.  But the proceduers for Cheese Cream was problematic.

What Tsuji’s Recipe (not this recipe) instructed must be used.

  1. Sugar and small amount of water was boiled to make syrup.
  2. Egg yolk was beaten in the bowl, the hot syrup was whisked in gradually. 
  3. MW and whisk, in 3 repetitions (700W, 30 sec x 3) until thickened.  (No need to use pasteurized yolk.)
  4. Use hand mixer to whip until pale, reduce the speed and whip until the custard cools.
  5. In another bowl, whisk mascarpone until smooth (which is important), add Marsala and Rum and whisk (to dilute the mascarpone).
  6. Add custard to the cheese cream and whisk. (The similar thickness -> better incorporation.)
  7. Either add whipped cream or Meringue and fold. (Meringue must be made of pasteurized egg white, perhaps adding a little bit of  lemon juice or cream of tartar would help Meringue’s stability.)

It is better to fill the cup to the very top for presentation.  This time amount of cream was not enough for 240 cc cup. 

total: slightly less than 1000 kcal

01/23/2011 Lasagna

Sunday, January 23rd, 2011

Ingredients: 6 servings (11″x7″x1″ baking dish)

  • 6 lasagna noodles (136 g)
  • boiled water
  • ————————
  • 1/2 LB (226.8 g) ground beef
  • some water
  • 24 oz (680.4 g) Prego Spaghetti Sauce (Any bottled/canned/homemade spaghetti sauce will do.)
  • ———————
  • 372 g ricotta cheese
  • 126 g shredded mozzarella cheese
  • 1 egg
  • ————————–
  • 27 g parmesan cheese, powder

Procedures:

  1. Cook Lasagna in boiled water for 12 min, leave the noodles in the hot water until soft enough.
  2. Heat the skillet, brown the ground beef, pour enough water and boil to get rid of foul meatiness and excess fat.  Drain and rinse through a strainer.
  3. Mix beef and Prego Spaghetti Sauce in a large bowl.
  4. In another medium bowl, mix ricota, mozzarella, and an egg.
  5. In a baking dish,  layer 1 Cup (240 cc) Prego Meat Sauce mixture, then 2 noodles (cut off the extended noodles with scissors and place the cut pieces on top of the exisitng noodles), then half of cheese mixture.
  6. Repeat step 5: Prego layer->2 noodles->the remaining cheese mixture.
  7. Layer 2 noodles->Prego layer to finish.
  8. Bake at 400F for 30 min.  Turn off the heat.  Let stand 10 min.
  9. Cut into 6 pieces, transfer to the serving dish, sprinkle with parmesan cheese. 

Comments:

Adapted from: Classic Lasagna, Sunday Newspaper Advertisement Brochure for Prego 100% Natural Spaghetti Sauce, Traditional.